From Biryani to Bakeries, Land of Nizams Still Holds The Ace

Hello!!!! Welcome!!!! Swagatam!!!! Khusamdeed!!!! were his (my Nizami friend) turn of phrases to introduce me to the City of Nizams when I came of the  Hyderabad airport. Travelling to Hyderabad was an official tour but I never miss an opportunity to indulge my pampering traveller’s self inaide me. The city’s storied cuisines had already had me on thrall while planning for the trip.

As I made way through the city with the excitement of a place I had never been before, I realized that the city does not have a single tongue. Urdu, Hindi, Deccan Hindi, Telugu and few other languages spoken in Hyderabad spiced up the diversity that goes unnoticed. The City of Nizams is not confined to a blend of Hyderabad and Andhra culture but goes beyond that.

Day 1

A few months back, the city was shocked with the brutal incident, “Priyanka Reddy’s rape and murder case”. Since I had felt the pain personally, I made a point to visit her place. Priyanka’s apartment was my first stop in Hyderabad, a twenty minutes distance from the touristy airport. After reaching there, I got to know that the family has moved to another city but somewhere I felt that they may not want to meet people to reopen their wounds. More than meeting her family I wanted to meet people of her locality, the area where she lived and the society where she could not save herself. It had been a month of her demise and still I found tears and fear in people’s eye and a sense of pain in the guard’s eyes of her Nakshatra Apartment, as he recalled Priyanka going in and out every day.  After the incident, the apartment is now vigilantly guarded.

The way to Osmania University is a long distance which took around two hours to reach. I knew Hyderabad as a hitech city but had no idea of its chaotic traffic. Before flying to the city, I knew Biryani means Hyderabad and therefore I had my second stop at Bawarchi, one of the oldest restaurants in Hyderabad.  There were various branches of Bawarchi. As I reached one(the oldest one), I found an endless queue in front of it. The thought of return was drowned in the aroma drifting it of the shop. I was accompanied by my Nizami friend and he too had lost his hope to get a seat there. Resolute that I would not return without it, I straight away went to the hotel counter with my trolley bag and tried to have a shortcut with my convincing skills. Guests generally don’t get warm treatment they expect in many cities but here, it was an exception. The shop manager at the counter recognised that I have come from outside and a guest to their city. He offered me a seat in the restaurant which was busy and humming with activities. In normal course, it would have taken me one and half hours. I was overwhelmed with his hospitality.

It was taking time to get my order, but I was not impatient and devouring the hustle and bustle. When the Biyani came, I found it hard to behave in the right way as I was squirming in a spell of excitement.  The feeling of dipping my first spoon into the plate and then into the mouth is hard to express. The aroma and the taste was moving in a delicate, delicious laziness from my tongue to the inner recesses. It is hard to understand how they could create such flavour out of garam masala, basmati rice and meat. Biryani is served here with Saalan, an authentic curry along with Raaita, which is thin in texture. Having Biryani there had a different experience which one cannot have in any fine dining restaurant. For people here, Birayani is a must and other delicacies come as props.

With my tummy filled to the trim, I reached my destination, the Osmania University. I had gone there to present a paper in a conference. Whenever I go on any official tour, I always make sure that the trip is carefully curated to pack in indulgencies with culture, adventure, and cuisine and is made for memories. With a feeling of alien happiness, and the views of a new city, its people, bazaars, traffic, I reached the guest house of the university.

 After I settled down to my guesthouse room, I got a call from my Nizami friend. He wanted me to join a small Hyderabadi Food Fest that he was organising. I was a bit exhausted after the days travel. But the thought of food and some sightseeing spurred me to accept his invitation. I am not a club type, and have a bit of a hesitating nature in terms of eating. Any way, it was also a learning experience as I could interact with some people, understanding the city, its people and their food habits, etc. The fest was going on but it was getting late for me. Also the traffic gets under your skin especially in the evening hours. So I decided to leave.

Day 2

Osmania University is not less than a city having many leafy clusters. I woke up the screams of people and after coming out to the Varandah, I saw people on morning walk. But I did not have much time to savour the morning scenery as I had to attend the conference. It was different excitement as one would come across intelligent and highly intellectual people from various parts of the country and some from outside also. So I dressed myself soberly for the occasion. 

After the day’s conferencing, I thought I would visit to the Hussain Sagar Lake. The sight of Lord Budddha’s statue at the centre of the lake lending a peaceful serenity to the whole atmosphere. I realized that without a boat ride, I cannot feel the waters from up and close which I did with some enthusiasm. With lights around the lake reflecting on the ripples was an astounding visual treat. But I did not have much time to linger around despite how much I loved to be there. I had to leave as evening was growing on me.

 

 Day 3

With having the conference part taken care, I decided to explore the city, its food and culture. The early morning was followed by Irani Chai and Osmania Biscuit. Irani tea was just one of its kind. It tastes a little stronger but the flavour was unique in a way. As per Osmania Biscuit, which extremely does not take time to melt in the mouth, it does have second variety that would taste as crispy, and soft. Osmania biscuit is typical to Hyderabad and rare to find the quality in the entire country. I had chance to try two outlets of Irani Chai- Nimrah and Nilofar.

 Nimrah: One of the famous tea stalls is located in the middle of Charminar and Macca Masjid. Even though my stay was for 4 days, I became a regular to the shops and early morning would have been incomple without a visit to Nimrah. While sipping the tea, I would enter a silent zone wondering about the old world charm. Common scenes of everyday life like sweepers sweeping the road, men in kurta pyjama with skull caps, women in burkha, some offering prayers all around and me having irani chai would induce deep thoughts.

 The café was very much close to Macca Masjid so I did visit the mosque and it had become by every day morning destination. Feeding pigeons, or sitting alone quietly, listening to the morning breeze were the moments now look priceless. It became my favourite destination in Hyderabad.

 

The got to know that the little child everyday feed the pigeons  before going to school.  


Nilofar: This tea joint I reserved for the evening. While in the morning I enjoyed the Nizami vibes, Nilofar is different in another way. Because I could get hot and crispy Osmania biscuit all the time.  I was quite surprised to see the crowd 24x7 at Nilofar, which indicates its popularity. Besides Biryani, Hyderabad is also a city of tea lovers.

 Breakfast in Hyderabad

During the sojourn, my choice for breakfast was split between and Hyderabadi and Andhra styles. Many would not find the difference but being a foodie, it could not escape from my notice.

Bundies: The road side food carts in Hyderabad called Bundy. Once I tried my morning breakfast in one of the local bundies and I was left spell-bound. And what was more revealing was its rate, very cheap to say the least. The dosa they make in Hyderabad deliciously different and they serve with coconut chutney and a curry not found in many places.

 Ram Ki Bundy: In the heart of the town, this outlet is open 11 pm to morning 8 am. It’s located opposite to Kranchi Bakery. The dosa they serve here is also delicious redolent of ghee flavour.  Hyderabadi dosa is very different from other places, and not surprisingly, I would reach there early in the morning to indulge my palate. In the beginning I thought I would be the only girl standing there and eating there but contrary to that I found that the place was crowded.

 Naayab: This eating joint is draws huge crowds for its famous keema naan and khatta khichdi. Keema naan is loaded with oil and spices and the taste is simply out of the world. With tandoor fresh butter naan, this keema wins hearts of many.

Khichdi khatta: This an authentic Hyderabadi dish. Somewhat closer to the taste of Kadhi, cooked with curd and yellow rice while spices and curry leaves adding to the flavour. People often include keema in their khatta kadhi. But as they say, the taste of pudding lies in eating.

One thing I had noticed that be it Hyderabad or Andhra, veg or non veg, the spices they use always use curry leaves and the taste is deliciously different from other south Indian states.

One of the authentic dish of Hyderabad

PAAYA NAAN: A goats ankles stewed with spices is called Paya. But let’s first talk about naan. Hyderabad Naan is authentic Hyderabad and is made in rectangle shapes, sort of a bun. And paya is served in a big bowl. But I did not know how to eat naan with paya and how to put naan in pieces and put in the gravy. Once you put the naan in the stew, the bread swells and then it is eaten. The taste is typical Mughal variety. When I was eating the paya dipped naan, thoughts of Mughal lifestyle, the museums and nizaams were crisscrossing my mind and the taste was reminding me of that era.

Amma ka khana

 In many of the  Hyderabad food groups,  I had come across one bulky lady who serves food at cheaper rates. I was returning from Secunderabad and on the way one comes across Banjaara hills. The lady who is fondly called Amma brings varieties of food in an auto. All her food gets finished in just few hours. People from far off places come to enjoy her food. She is a very loving lady.  I had chicken and rice, and the taste was amazing. Of course it was spicy. The food gives a proper Andhra flavour with curry leaves and a lot of spices.

Bakery:

Bakeries are a ubiquitous sight in Hyderabad. But Karachi Bakery is one of the famous. But the friend of mine took me to Subhan bakery. After reaching there,I discovered that it was 100-year-old shop. I not only had biscuits there but bought so much that it lasted for a month and there was no loss of taste.  Dum ka rot, made in pure ghee was something unique.                                                            

   

Shopping in Hyderabad

One can shop near Charminar but it was not something great. But the best place to shop is Secunderabad where one can find nice cotton sarees. I went there to buy a silk saree and bought in bulk for my mother. One day also I did window shopping near Charminar but could not find anything to my taste. However, If you like to wear varieties bangles, it is the place.

Paces to visit in Hyderabad: 

There are  many places to visit in Hyderabad but the places. Places that I covered are:

Golkunda fort: It is worth visiting but do not spend much time there. 

Salarjung Meuseum: One will get to have a close view of Nizams' life

Chomala palace: I loved it as I got to know about Mir Osman Ali Khan

Charminar: More than Charminar I loved the city view around it. One can feel the old world charm.

Husaain Sagar lake: Worth visiting (Sunrise and Sunset)

Mecca Masjid: Must to visit place(It was my everyday visiting destination. I am not at all a religious and fundamentalist girl like the psudo religious country but still I found peace there.

 Hyderabad high court:  Though it is not a touristy place but I always apply my convincing skill and got to admire its Nizami architecture. 

To this end Mastani Musafir bids adieu to the historical city. By now the 'City of Nizams' had turned to a Food Paradise.