Little wonders of Delhi





Delhi has many historic monuments like Lal Quila and Qutab Minar and landmarks like Lotus temples. They are popular among tourists. Very few would know the existence of Majnu ka Tilla or its history. In fact, the place has much less to offer as a tourist destination. But the place still attracts people like me because of its history.
After getting down at Secretariat metro station, I took an e-rickshaw ride through narrow lanes and by lanes to reach the mini Tibet commonly named "Majnu ka Tilla". If you just go by the name of the place, you would believe that the story of the place is someway related to Laila-Majnu story where "Majnu" sacrifices his life for the sake of his love for "Laila".
The real Delhiii


Entrance of Majnu ka Tilla(Tibetan Colony)
The historic name of area, literally means the hillock of Majnu, after the tilla or mound where during the reign of Sikandar Lodhi (1489–1517) on Delhi Sultanate, a local Iranian Sufi mystic, Abdulla nicknamed Majnu (lost in love), met Sikh Guru, Guru Nanak on 20 July 1505. Majnu ferried people across the Yamuna river for free as a service to God, his devotion resulted in the Nanak staying here till end July. In later history Sikh military leader Baghel Singh Dhaliwal built the Majnu ka Tila Gurudwara to commemorate the stay in 1783, and the sixth Sikh guru, Guru Har Gobind also stayed here. Today it is one of oldest extant Sikh shrines in Delhi and the surrounding estate of donated by early 19th-century Sikh emperor, Ranjit Singh.

Narrow lanes of Mini Tibet
Majnu Ka Tilla area has three main residential settlements - Aruna Nagar, New Aruna Nagar and Old Chandrawal village, which was built up in early 1900s, when British government settled labourers involved in the construction of the Central Secretariat buildings, during the construction of the New Delhi. The next round of settlement came post-independence in 1958-59, when Aruna Nagar was developed by the Land and Development wing of the Ministry of Urban Development as it disbursed 925 plots of 40 sq. yard each, to people resettled here from various part of North Delhi. The Tibetan refugee camp later named New Aruna Nagar developed after 1960.
Just as Aruna Nagar was developing, the 1959 Tibetan uprising took place in March, most residents of Majnu-ka-tilla left Tibet in 1959-60, when the Dalai Lama too went into exile to Dharamshala. Soon, a small Tibetan refugee camp up across the road, on the Yamuna riverbed. The land was allotted by the government to the refugees in 1960. After the Sino-Indian War in 1962, many of the refugees who had previously settled temporarily near the Indo-Chinese border shifted here. Today, it is home to second generation of Tibet refugees and is also known as Samyeling, through colloquially as "Little-Tibet" or "Mini-Tibet".                       
A Buddhist Friend(Sange) of the Tibetan Colony

Lapping
The place is a perfect place for people looking for some authentic Tibetan cuisine. If you want a culinary journey of the Tibetan palates, restaurants like Rigo, Ama, Dolma house and Asian kitchen won’t disappoint you. One can see people digging into their plates of Momos, Thukpa, Lapping, Thentuk, Tigmo and Shabalay at any time of the day. Though the taste was very different from our Indian cuisine, I did relish the Tibetan food.
How does Lapping tastes

Tibetan Tea
But there was something that did disappoint me. Even though India is their adopted homeland, the Tibetans are unaware of the national language - India. Not only that, they are also ignorant of the cultural practices of the country. Well, I need to explore deeper to understand that why they remain alienated from their immediate surrounding even after living here for more than half a century. But Buddhist teachings always reveal new meaning of life for me and in the pursuit, got a chance to interact a monk.
  
                                               
A visit to the Monestary and a short conversation with the Monk(kindly bare with the quality of the video)


Me with a Monk
Inside the Monestary( surprised to see Beer and Whisky as an offering)

Though I consider Tibetans prefer to live in their cocooned world, but yes they are truly dedicated to their religion and culture. People praying through the wheels, chanting prayers in the shrine were something impossible for me to understand but the place had a different flavour which was not letting me to leave the place.



My next stop in Delhi was at one of the most famous culinary destinations Karim, the oldest historic restaurant located near Jama Masjid, Gali Kababian. The restaurant was established in 1913.
Karim (Since 1913)
At Karim still the food is cooked in the same way as it was cooked during Mugals
In mid 19th century, Mohammed Aziz was a cook in the royal court of Mughal Emperor. In 1911, when Delhi Durbar was held for the coronation of the King George V, one of Aziz's sons Haji Karimuddin moved back to Delhi with an innovative idea of opening a Dhaba to cater the people coming from all over India to join the coronation. Haji Karimuddin started the Dhaba selling just two items of Aloo gosht (mutton with potatoes) and Daal (lentil curry) served with Rumali Roti, saying, “I want to earn fame and money by serving the royal food to the common man". Today, the fourth generation is running the show in a brand name Karim Hotels Pvt Ltd.

The narrow lane just opposite to Jama Mosque leading to Karim
As it was just a day trip and I had my train in evening, I did not have time for many places. But how can I leave the city without visiting the shoppers’ paradise, Sarojini Market. If there is a perfect place on earth for hanging around then it is the busy flea market Sarojini Nagar Market. 
Crowd of the India's biggest Shopping Paradise
                            
Tiny food stalls cramped in every nook and corner, vibrant coloured clothes hanging in front of  retail outlets all over, deafening cacophony of the sales boys and chock-a-block environment welcome you as you enter Sarojini Nagar. The market has more to offer to women in comparison to men, in terms of clothing, footwear, kitchen utensils, accessories and cosmetics. Located in South West Delhi, the bazaar is named after the famed freedom fighter Sarojini Naidu. The market never disappoints anybody from designers to divas to professionals to the  college crowd.

As I have already mentioned that it was just a day trip so now it was the time to bid adieu.......
Double Decker Zindabaad!!!!!!

Tips:-
i) Friends!!!!! Delhi is a blend of culture and modernity and in order to explore the essence of the city one must have a week  in hand. As I had just a day therefore I could not explore much.
ii) When you are in Sarojini Market do bargain as much as you can and beware with the pick-pocketers.
iii) If you have time and you are a big foodie then must Qureshi Kabaab. It is in Old Delhi.
iv) Friends!!!! I know there are lot to explore in Delhi as Delhi is my second home but I just had a day and that also morning 11:00 a.m to evening 4:30 p.m. as at 5:30 p.m I had my train to Jaipur. But next time will bring new .
Request:-
Friends, please do mention in the comment box if you truly liked it or if you find something lacking in it. That would be highly beneficial to me.





Comments

  1. Hi author!
    I was wondering about majnu ka tilla and found your blog. This has a useful information and enjoyed the way u have experienced. Keep it up.
    However, the narration with the monk had disappointed me , may be the translator didn't translate properly.

    ReplyDelete

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